HISTORY
The princess cut, a widely admired and sought-after diamond shape, has a somewhat convoluted history that spans several decades. Contrary to popular belief, its origins do not solely lie in the 1970s with the introduction of the Barion cut by Basil Watermeyer.
Tracing back to 1961, the true inception of the princess cut can be attributed to Arpad Nagy, a diamond cutter based in London. Nagy introduced what was originally known as the "profile cut," a design that incorporated a square shape with a brilliant faceting pattern. This profile cut laid the foundational framework for what would eventually be recognized and celebrated as the princess cut. Its distinctive symmetry and modern aesthetic appealed to many, setting it apart from other traditional cuts available at the time.
The term "princess cut," however, did not come into popular usage until 1981, thanks to the efforts of Betzalel Ambar, Ygal Perlman, and Israel Itzkowitz. These innovators rebranded Nagy's profile cut, refining its proportions and enhancing its brilliance. Their contributions cemented the princess cut's reputation in the jewelry industry. Today, the princess cut is esteemed for its sharp, clean lines and its ability to maximize the diamond’s sparkle. It stands as a testament to the evolution of diamond cutting techniques and the melding of artistry with precision engineering.
CUT
The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) classifies a princess cut diamonds as a "Square Modified Brilliant” on its grading certificates. This designation differentiates it from other square diamonds, such as the Asscher and cushion cut. Princess cut diamonds are renowned for their brilliance, characterized by their inverted pyramid shape and intricate chevron patterns on the pavilion.
The princess cut typically features a faceted pavilion (underside) arranged in chevron patterns. These chevrons are essentially 'V' shaped facets that channel light back through the crown (top) of the diamond. The number of chevrons can vary, with common configurations including two, three, or four chevrons. Each variation contributes differently to the diamond's brilliance and scintillation.
A diamond with two chevron patterns will exhibit large, bold flashes of light and color, making it a commanding choice for those who prefer a more pronounced sparkle. Conversely, a four-chevron pattern will produce a higher frequency of smaller flashes, contributing to a more scintillating effect that can be visually mesmerizing. For a balanced appearance, a three-chevron pattern offers a harmonious blend of both bold and subtle light reflections.
The crown (top) of a princess cut diamond can feature either French corners or bezel corners. French corners have star facets that point towards the stone's corners, giving a more delicate and intricate look. Bezel corners, characterized by diamond-shaped facets, provide enhanced durability. This makes bezel corners a practical choice for every day wear, as they are less prone to chipping compared to French corners. Still, we always recommend adding a bezel or prongs to each corner of a princes cut diamond in order to protect the stone from everyday wear and tear.
When evaluating princess cut diamonds, several technical aspects can be considered to ensure you choose the best quality stone. First, focus on the depth percentage. You don’t want all your beautiful carat weight hiding underneath the diamond, and a stone too deep or too shallow will lack brilliance and sparkle. Look for a princess cut diamond ranging between 65-75% in depth. Generally, the lower end of that range will look better. The table percentage, which measures the size of the top facet relative to the diamond's width, should be kept below 75%. This ensures a well-proportioned stone with optimal light performance. The length-to-width ratio is crucial for a perfectly square appearance, and to maximize the sparkle of your diamond. Aim for a ratio between 0.98 and 1.02 to get the right look. Ratios exceeding 1.05 will make the diamond appear off-shape, which can detract from its visual appeal, or make the diamond appear dark or dull.
We can get to know princess cut diamonds even better by comparing their cuts to round brilliant diamonds. While a round diamond of the same carat weight will generally have a slightly larger face-up surface area, princess cut diamonds often appear larger due to their expansive diagonal measurements. This attribute can offer significant value, particularly when working within a budget, as princess cuts typically require less material waste during cutting—utilizing approximately 60-70% of the rough diamond. (The less rough diamond wasted, the less expensive the polished diamond can be.) Consequently, this efficiency often makes princess cut diamonds more affordable than round brilliants.
COLOR
A princess cut diamond will show more of its color than the traditional round brilliant. This is because the princess cut's geometry allows for more light leakage, making it harder to conceal the inherent color of the diamond. However, both cuts are classified as brilliant cuts, which means they are designed to maximize light reflection and dispersion. This brilliance can help mask the color to some extent by breaking up the light, making the diamond appear whiter than it actually is.
For those considering natural diamonds, the color grades H, I, and J are excellent choices, especially when paired with warm metal settings like rose gold or yellow gold. These settings naturally complement and enhance the diamond's warm tones. An H or I color diamond can look nearly colorless in these settings, while a J color diamond will display a slight tint, adding a unique character without compromising on brilliance.
When opting for lab-grown diamonds, the flexibility in color grading is even greater. Because the cost to produce and cut a lab grown diamond is significantly less than a natural mined diamond, you may be able to get a colorless or near colorless stone for the same price of a natural diamond further down the scale. Here you can opt for a D, E, or F color princess cut diamond and come away with a brilliantly white stone.
CLARITY
Clarity grades, assigned by gemological laboratories, range from Flawless (FL) to Included (I1, I2, I3).. For those seeking an optimal balance between clarity and cost, focusing on SI1 or VS2 princess cut diamonds can be particularly advantageous.
With a brilliant princess cut diamond, you can go as low as SI1 (Slightly Included 1) clarity grade and walk away with a sparkling stone that has no inclusions visible to the naked eye. This can help you allocate your budget to more desirable traits like carat weight. Not all SI1 diamonds are created equally, of course, and you’ll want to work a diamond expert who can help you know if the dark inclusions visible under 10X magnification would also be visible to the naked eye in your engagement ring. To stay on the safe side of clarity, opt for a VS1 or VS2.
CONCLUSION
There's a reason why princess cut diamonds are the second most popular cut of diamond in the world! Their brilliant sparkle and clean lines are the top choice for many couples designing a custom engagement ring. We encourage you to work with your own custom engagement ring expert to design a one-of-a-kind diamond ring made just for you, and with SHANNON, you can do it all over text! Schedule your online consultation to meet your custom engagement ring concierge and start the easy, reliable and extremely personalized process. We can't wait to meet you!